Hard Light Productions Forums
Modding, Mission Design, and Coding => The Modding Workshop => Modding Tutorials => Topic started by: Scooby_Doo on November 06, 2006, 07:24:04 pm
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Well I wrote this about 3-5am this morning so take heart LOL.
Starting Out
Start with a base texture. I use a 2048*2048 texture, makes it easier to do painting high res.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/tut1.jpg)
Next I use texporter's output, if your using some other program than Max, you'll need to do it some other way. but you'll need a black and white outline of the uvmap
Settings Are:
- Image size 2048*2048 [match this with the desired texture size]
- Just edges no polygon fill (use edges only, all lines is too messy)
- No backface culling or marking overlap (marking overlaps can be used to indicate possible problems though)
- No smoothing colors
- Use constant and use a pure white color
Save the results to a file and make sure to use bmp or at least use lossless formats only.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/tut2.jpg)
Now load that file into photoshop or whatever you use.
Either copy that layer into your base texture (or drag and drop that layer) and then change the outline layer to lighter or linear dodge (as long as you only see the white outlines)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/tut3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render1.jpg)
Panelling
Time to start creating the panels. I base my big panels on the shape of the ship. Imagine what a good removeable panel would look like (sorta like car hoods, engine hoods...etc) For the lines I use a black line, 1 pixel width. It is also a good idea to have them all in one layer (join mode), otherwise you'll have a couple dozen plus single vector lines. I then go to layer style for the lines and activate Bevel & emboss, set style to outer bevel, and give a size of about 2-3px. Use the white outline that texporter made to guide you. It's a processes of adding a few lines, saving and viewing and repeating.
Ok heres the result. This model doesn't have a whole lot of panelling
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/tut4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render3.jpg)
Detailling
Now add detail textures (engines... and fancy stuff...etc). Sometimes its easier to change the UVmap rather than the textures (the engine glow in this example) A lot of the textures come from freespace and descent. Sometimes adding two different textures together can produce another new one, other times using only a tiny section of one texture works. Don't forget you can change saturation/hue or even desaturate the texture. Also don't forget you can use a texture overlayed over another one using one of the overlay modes. (Transparencies) Usually I have the 3d model in view and use ACDC to cycle through all the textures looking for something X that could go on spot Y.
Another hint for the photoshop users, use layer sets! It'll save you a lot of frustration when you have several dozen layers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/tut5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render4.jpg)
Next lets add some dark panels around the cockpit area and a few other sections...
Simply create a new layer. Use the selection tool and draw out the area in question then flood fill. Afterwards lower the transpancy on that layer so you can just kinda see the details underneath it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render5.jpg)
I decided the panels were too dull and large so I added a second line layer, using 1px line and 1px beveled outline and dropped the transparency to about 50%.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render6.jpg)
Next step is to add suttle panel color changes. This gives the appearance that some of the panels were taken from another ship or brand or weathered. Create a new layer. Theres two ways to do this, first way, you may need to hide the background, in my case it isn't necessary. Switch to flood fill, select opacity at 3%, make sure contiguous and all layers is selected. Select a panel, then flood fill it. Select another panel and repeat... change the number of times you flood fill.. this will give a random tint. If you find out that its filling the entire map. Undo and use the second method.. first select the panel area and then flood fill.
Optional parts: on some models, fighters mostly you can add rectanglur knotices and/or rivets just remember they will not show up much in the ingame version.
Here are the results. With this texture base the results are very suttle. If you have a more uniform base texture then it'll show up better
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render7.jpg)
Now comes the fun parts... making it dirty. At this point memory usage is going to rise quickly.
First thing is to add a layer of overlay grim. It would be wise to create a new layer set (if available) for all the grim layers. Create a new layer. Make sure black and white are the colors and do a filter->render->clouds. Layer style use multiply and drop the opacity down to about 50% or less.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render8.jpg)
Dirty corners.
Now we're going to add slight shadowing corner areas. Create a new layer set to darken at about 40% opacity. Switch to brush and set to a blurry brush app 65px (use whatever settings best suits the situtation, just keep it blurry). Find creases and sharp inward corners on the model and just roll the brush through that area making sure that about half of the brush is actually getting the area. This is suppose to be a slight darkening. In this example, the base of the rudders, the hull area right in front of where the wings attach.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render9.jpg)
Battle Damage
You will need to do this in either two steps or one depending on how things are mapped out. If all your uvmaps are going horizontal or vertical, then you can do this in one step. If you have some verticle and some horizitonal then you need to do each seperately. By horizontal/vertical i mean lets take the wings for example, in this case the front of the wing is horiztonal to the rear of the wing. Same with the main hull, however the rear hull isn't. the front of the back section is vertical to the very rear. Basically if you can draw a line(s) horz/vert across everything and they all appear the same direction on the mesh then everythings the same. The reasoning for this is the blast marks need to go from front to back. If you do everything the same way and their not aligned the same way you will end up with blast marks going from front to back and from side to side.
Ok first create a another new layer, set the style to multiply. Select brush with some odd shaped brush style, leaves, rolled rag..etc about 90px or so. Smear from front to back (or back to front) the brush across parts of the model, not huge smudges just odd random sizes. Do be careful around areas where there will be symetry in the model, otherwise the results will look too mirrored. Next filter->blur->motion blur. Set it to go horz (0 deg) and about 130 pixels. This makes a large strecked blurry mess. Now we need to scratch up those blurrs. Use noise->add noise (monochromitic), try filter->texture->Grain (use vertical). Also try angled strokes and splatter. Play around, you'll want a scratched up blackish blur. Once you've gotten a gritty mess, go back and select motion blur again, but this time use 45 degree angle and a much smaller blur pixel. Once thats done, motion blur again, back at 0 and a nice large pixel number. The 45 degree motion blur helps get rid of any streaking. Repeat the process for the parts that are going perpendicual to the what you just did.
You can repeat this process using smaller blobs and creating sharper blast marks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render11.jpg)
Grease stains
One final step comes straight from modelling WW2 aircraft. Creating grease/oil/rust streaks. Create a new layer, position this layer below any of the details. Switch to a smallish blurred brush and where ever there is a vent or something that could get rust or streaks, paint a smudge of black paint there. Then switch to the smudge tool, select a similar sized odd shaped brush and smear the black blob in the right direction (usually going back or down on the model) Once done, use motion blur to blur it out more. You might end up having to move the smear and possible drop transparency down.
One last darkening you can do is select the detail (it should be on it's own layer) go to the layer style. Use outer glow and replace the color with black and switch the blend mode to darken (so it actually shows up)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/tut6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render12.jpg)
Right now it could use some more detailing. Try photoshops vector symbols to get arrows, warning marks... etc. Be careful with text though, especially if that area is symetrical on the mesh, one side the text will appear reversed like in a mirror.
Adding glow maps is another topic all together.
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Awefully good of you to take the time to write this. If it gets more good response, I'll sticky it.
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:eek2:
That, sir, is absolutely cool.
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very, very nice. :yes:
Bookmarked.
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NICE =D Are those Descent 3 textures you stole there? :drevil:
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Yup I even mentioned it that some come from freespace, descent, off the net.... I'm not good enough at photoshop to make those type of textures.
Up next..... glow map tut. using this model (BTW this is the Stalker strike bomber, modeled off of the Privateer 2 Karnenan)
Quick question... in photoshop how do you take a grey/black scale image and turn it into a colored image like red
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not bad, but i must ephasize the usage of the noise and motion blur filters together to create metallic textures. using alot of noise (non-monochroimatic) on black, with 1-2 points gaussian blur and motion blur makes a good glass or shinemap for glass effect.
another thing i also do is keep the individual layers grey and add tiling with the pattern overlay layer style. layer styles are your friend. some texturers hate using layers but you can do so much with them. i never collaps, if you collapse youre making shine glow and env maps that much harder to do. i either pur all my layers in a layer set, duplicate it, and alter it after im done, or if its high resolution texture, il save a copy and edit the copy one layer at a time. most of the time its just a matter of tweaking the layer effects.
another trick when making shine or env maps, on shiny surfaces i like to copy them merged in the shine map and flip em in the env map, that way you get less reflection on sectionss that have alot of change on the specular chanel and areas which are not effected much on specular will be brighter on the env map so the reflect more. dont be affrait to reduce contrast on the env map, a softer variation tends to look better. also for envs it may be preferable to copy+paste one chanel from the diffuse or shine rather than all of them. if you want one color to be more reflective than another.
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Yup I even mentioned it that some come from freespace, descent, off the net.... I'm not good enough at photoshop to make those type of textures.
Up next..... glow map tut. using this model (BTW this is the Stalker strike bomber, modeled off of the Privateer 2 Karnenan)
Quick question... in photoshop how do you take a grey/black scale image and turn it into a colored image like red
open a new rgb image and paste it into the red chanel, its on the same panel as layers.
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I'm stilling trying to figure out your style
Not to mention if you collapse, then glow maps can be more difficult if you have glowing textures.
Yup I even mentioned it that some come from freespace, descent, off the net.... I'm not good enough at photoshop to make those type of textures.
Up next..... glow map tut. using this model (BTW this is the Stalker strike bomber, modeled off of the Privateer 2 Karnenan)
Quick question... in photoshop how do you take a grey/black scale image and turn it into a colored image like red
open a new rgb image and paste it into the red chanel, its on the same panel as layers.
That didn't work... however pasting to G and B channels did create a red version :)
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or you can just use adjust hsb, and use the colorize checkbox.
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That was my first attempt... the results were far less pleasing as using the channels.
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I'm not sure if I ever posted this here
Offhand, my texturing is done over several layers; I don't do tiles nowadays, but the basic template tactics work with minor changes...offhand;
1/ base layer; colour segmentation
2/ shading/noise layer. Basic light/dark shading combined with 5 noise and 2 pixels motion blur.
3/ colouration layer; overlaid colours (colour blend); this is more relevant for templating
3.5/underlay; I've just started experimenting with this; basically some form of abstract shape 'under' but on top of the colouration layers. for tiled textures, try overlaying lots of thick rectangles of 20 thickness, at about 10% black or 5% white - this is sort of a B5 effect which adds a nice breakup to the surface
4/ white shading layer; about 10-20% opacity of shading using a round brush
5/ black grain; 20-30% opacity using a black grained (i.e. pixellated) brush. This generally is used to cover up the white areas once 6 is done
6/ black shading; 30-40% shading, the 'inverse' of white.
7/vthin white; 4% or so very fine detail in white lines. Just a surface breakup effect - usually take layer 8, invert it and shift 1 pixel to the side and down.
8/vthin black; very low opacity (5% ish) black lines filling in the gaps of the other more visible panelling lines. This is a pain in the arse to do, and the actual value is debatable.
9/thin white; manually drawn white-offset lines to L10; about (IIRC) 10%
10/thin black; thin panels in between the thick lines, about 20-30%. This is the lowest level of visible panelling
11/rust; brown 'star' paintbrush effects under the thickest lines, usually a burn layer at about 5-15%
12/charcoal; this is rather an odd one; basically take a medium thick black round brush, 'trace' round under the thickest lines, apply a charcoal effect and set to about 10-15% opacity
13/thick-1pt white; about 20-30% opacity white, tracing layer 14
14/thick-1pt black; 55-70% opacity black, tracing thinner but still very visible lines between the plates defined by 16; this usually follows the template lines so it's marking polygon edges.
15/thich-2pt-white; actually a 1pt white line at 20-30% opacity which traces 16
16/thick-2pt-black; black 2-point lines forming the edges of the primary hull plates. Highly visible, and must be used sparingly for effect. About 60-80% opacity.
16.5/
Additionally, I sometimes add a layer under the rivets. this is basically a brown star under each rivet position, blurred and low opacity. i'm not sure if it's necessary, though.
17/rivets; manually drawn rivets across the sides of the 16 lines (this is why we use 16 sparingly, and even then you only want a limited number of rivets). Basically, take a suitably sized round white brush, and draw a circle with it (dot). Then take the same size brush, make it black, and dot on top of the existing white circle very slightly offset. And you have a nice rivet. Set to about 90% to avoid it being too stark.
18/solids; stuff which isn't drawn layered but all in one do to be visually distinct. I.e. gun barrels, engines, etc. Drawing these is really a combination of the previous layers work on a single layer; for example a gun barrel is usually shading + noise + low opacity overlapping rectangles + some lines + white overlay + brown overlay + burn (latter 3 use a grainy brush).
19/ highlights; this is a new one for me; it's only seen on the Claymore so far. Basically, take a white star brush and apply it across the lighted parts of the ships. Set the layer to overlay (er, I think; might be multiply) and between 30-60% opacity to taste.
20/highlights 2; brighter version of 19; used sparingly for key parts.
21/paint; labels, decals, etc. Draw to taste, select, apply some noise (or manually add white + black grain), then set to about 50% opacity. finally, take an eraser (grain) and go about selectively removing the labels as if they'd been scored away etc. You may want to move this down to under the thick plate layers.
22/text; as for paint; if we have the maps set out for this, apply some text using the same method as 21. Yay!
23/Damage; damage effects like burns, scrapes, bullet-marks. for bullets in particular; take a white 'star' brush, place it on the map. Then place a black star on top slightly offset. Looks lovely. Might want to blur and set to about 80% opacity so it looks best.
24/glow soft; multiply blurred glow imitating lighting effects.
25/glow hard; solid glows. i.e. bright red solid blocks for lights, etc. Sometimes soft glows next to missile bays, etc. Also engine glow effects.
26/ drawing aid; keep a copy of the map template in wireframe, sans the white bits (duh; i.e. so it's only the lines), low opacity and use it as an aid for the lines, etc.
Phew. Rough principle I follow is really simple; at the end, you want to make sure no pixels have the same colour as their neighbours. Obviously that's not a strict rule, but it's a good guide to get a nice mix of detail. also, as with the vthin lines etc, you need to add incredibly subtle stuff to get the best effect overally.
I'll try and see if I can find a recent map which is small enough to upload as an aid, but I doubt I'll have one; they normally are rather huge in PSD format IIRC.
EDIT; claymore render; http://www.sectorgame.com/aldo/media/gtf_claymore.jpg - you can see some of the line mix, the highlights and the little decal scrapes etc here. hopefully.
Bear in mind, though, this was a render with spec-maps, etc, so the actual model-map is somewhat less, um, 'vivid'. Particularly RE: bump maps.
I've changed a tiny bit since writing that; use a couple of extra layers for more shading work, another line of top level surface detail, and to draw individual rivets.
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I like this Tutorial, Very comprehnsive.
three thumbs up :yes: :yes: :yes:
Any tips on which Texporter type plugin to go for Truespace-wise?
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Still confused about the first few steps aldo... progress pics would come in handy :D
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Now the glow map tutorial... Don't worry this one is much shorter
Fighter glow maps
Doing glow maps is seperated into two seperate steps: using max and using photoshop.
Heres the model I'm going to be using, its the same one as before but I've added some more texturing and objects to it after the last tutorial.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render13.jpg)
First thing to do is determine where there will areas giving off light. For fighters it is usually quite simple, for capships it can be more time consuming. Intakes, floodlamps... etc are all possible examples. If your doing area spot lights use the target spotlight if your doing areas that just give off glow, use omni lights.
In this example theres only one area that need lighting, the engine intakes, and they both use omni lights.
Because I made life easier for me by using symtery, I only need to do one side of the model.
For this model I used two omni glow points, set the color to a blueish hue. Lowered the multiplier down to .5, enabled ray tracing shadows. Also don't forget to set the scene ambient to pure black and have a pure black background.
Unforunately, Max's real time light rendering isn't very accurate, i.e. no shadowing occurs. So you'll have to put a few lights on the scene, render it and adjust as needed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/tut7.jpg)
Screen res was lowered for photobucket. Also only half the hull is there, symetry was temporarily disabled.
Heres the rendered result
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render14.jpg)
You can't see very much, which is exactly how we wanted it. Only thing visible is what's getting the lighting from the engine section.
Texture baking Prep.
When you've got all the lighting the way you wanted it we need to prep things for the baking.
The way I do it, you can only bake on object at a time. If you have more than one object using the same texture receiving lighting, you will need to attach them together. And each texture that gets lighting will need to be baked seperately. Objects that don't get lighting or are using a common texture used for other models don't need to be baked.
For example:
Object1 is using TextureA
Object2 is Using TextureB
Object3 is using TextureA
Object4 is using TextureC
Object5 is using TextureE but no lighting.
Object6 is using the commonly used texture CockpitTexture
You will need to bake 3 times (one for A, B and C). Object's 1 & 3 will need to be attached to each other. One easy way is to get the lighting the way you want it. Save the file with the lighting. Attach the objects, bake and don't save the changes. You'll still have the lighting but the objects won't be attached to each other. (Especially useful if the objects still had their modifer stacks before the merging)
Object5 doesn't get any lighting so theres no need to bake it (the results would be pure black anyways).
Object6 is using a texture thats used on other models. If we bake the lighting for this model, then it would not look correct on other models. The only thing we can really do is do it manually with photoshop, so Object6 doesn't get baked (in the model we're using, this would be the cockpit and guns)
In this case, the entire ship's hull is one object using one texture so it's one baking.
Baking an object
To start the baking, select the first object. Press "0" or Rendering->Render To Texture.
This will bring up the Render to Texture dialog
Basic settings are (most are default):
Rendered Frame Window : Checked
Objects to Bake: This should contain the name of the object you selected. If theres nothing in the list, reselect your object
Mapping Coordinates: Use Existing Channel!!! Make sure it's use exisitng, if you use automatic it'll redo the uvmap and while the model will
look ok, the texture map will be a total unuseable mess
Output list will be empty. Click Add then LightingMap Add Elements.
You will need to replace 256 with the size of the texture, in this case 2048
Everything else should hopefully be default
Click Render. You may get a message saying missing map targets just click continue. Also if you get an file exists simply override the file (we don't be using it anyways)
It will display a User rendering screen. Baking can take several minutes (depending on number of lights and speed of your machine) and most of the map rendered will be black.
Once it's done rendering, save the resulting image to a bmp.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/render15.jpg)
Repeat the baking step for any other textures.
You can close down Max now. We're done using it.
Finishing up
Now start up photoshop and load the ships texture and the bmp we just created from the baking process.
Select all of the the baked texture and copy and paste it into the ship hull texture. You'd better not have collapse all those layers!!!
Move any layer that produces a glow (in this case, the engine intakes and the lights on the belly of the ship) on top of the baked layer. This will give them the fully lite effect. Any other layers that don't give off a glow such as base texture, panel lines, grim, detailing can be deleted to considerably save space/memory a lot of it too)
Save the resulting image to something-glow.psd (in this case stalker-glow.psd)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/tut8.jpg)
Again if you have more than one baked texture, repeat the photoshop steps for the other textures.
All done :)
Optional
You can then add the glow map to the model (it's Self-Illumination on the material editor) and delete the original glow points you added and setup the model, add whatever, background, etc... and include at min one light (to activate lighting in max)
Render a show-off pic.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/karnenen3.jpg)
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Now that is a cool way to do glowmaps. Awesome stuff. :D :yes:
One thing I would suggest with that texturing style is to try and lessen the contrast between the recessed mechanical parts and the hull - it's really strong ATM in terms of texture detail & shading as well as brightness.
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I'm still eagerly waiting for bumpmapping :D
that should help solve that problem.
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Nice technique again, Aldo likes Confed?
Yay!
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Still confused about the first few steps aldo... progress pics would come in handy :D
I'd post up a PSD if I could find one under a few hundred meg in size. It's been ages since I modelled anything, so if I ever get round to it I'll take some snapshots.
Anyways, to try and clarify;
1/ you have a black and white wireframe; divvy it up into coloured regions (like light grey wings, darker grey hull, etc); really basic, and effectively detailless :)
2/Use low opacity black and white paintbrush (large brush size) to apply subtle colour highlights of light->dark etc. Apply photoshop noise, then photoshop motion blur (this creates a nice 'grain' base).
3/Add colours on top; that is, use a colour-layer to add red regions, blue regions, etc. I do this here because it's easier if I want to change the overall colour balance of the texture.
(I work on a general principle that no 2 adjacent pixels should be the exact same colour)
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not bad, but i must ephasize the usage of the noise and motion blur filters together to create metallic textures.
Hey, the results of that simple method are stunning :yes: Creates great metallic base layers.
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I've installed Texporter and try out exporting an object using your settings but it seems that something is going wrong, the UV export looks mess, I think something is not well set or something else...
Here are what I got and my object in perspective :
(http://img.gkblogger.com/blog/imgdb/000/000/060/037_3.jpg)
(http://img.gkblogger.com/blog/imgdb/000/000/060/038_3.jpg)
If someone understand and could help me .... thanks in advance ! Bye.
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Before you do any texturing you must UV map the model. Karajama has a tutorial for that. :)
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Thank you for your quick reply, i find his faq but did not find any tutorial $ about uvmapping from him (this forum, google or faq) :/
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Another texturing update (also so I don't forget myself how to do these)
1.For this I'm using this as an example, note the name of this layer is called "Background".
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram1.jpg)
2.I've added a simple panel to this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram2.jpg)
Random Panel Noise
3.I then create a new layer, set it to Normal 42%.
4.I then select the interior of the panel and use this photoshop script (i've also linked it with F12 key)
<Generate Panel Noise>
Set Foreground Color - black
Set Background Color - white
Clouds
Add Noise - Gaussian, 4%, monochromatic
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram3.jpg)
5. If the panel looks too similar to an adjacent panel, simply reapply it.
6.Repeat #4 for each additional panel. You can select multiple panels at a time, perferrably not having them touch each other.
Rivets
7. Next comes the buttons aka rivets. Create a new layer, leave it normal at 100%. Set the Blending options to:
- Drop Shadow
- Blend mode: multiple Color: RGB: (117, 70, 15) [A brownish color]
- Opacity: 90%
- Angle: This depends on which was the panel is facing, the brown shadow should probably face down or back
- Uncheck Use Global Light
- Distance: 4px
- Spread: 6%
- Size: 9px
- Bevel and Emboos
- Style: Pillow Emboss
- Technique: Soft
- Depth: 91%
- Direction: Down
- Size: 3px
- Soften: 2px
- Angle: 178 deg, check Use Global Light, 28 deg
8. Apply the rivets where you wish them to be.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram4.jpg)
9. If you have panels sections going in opposite directions (due to uving) you can, if you wish, create a second layer where the drop shadow is pointing in the right direction. (If your a perfectionist)
White Splots
10. Create another new layer, leave at normal 100%. I'm not sure which group this brush belongs to, but the name is "Starburst large" size 49. Here's what it looks like:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram5.jpg)
11. Set the foreground color to white and throw several of these starbursts around the panel in a random fashion.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram6.jpg)
12. Next I run the follow script twice.
<Generate Panel Splots>
Add Noise - Gaussian, 47.7%, monochromatic
Crystalize - cell size: 10
Gaussian Blur - rad: 1.5px
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram7.jpg)
Brown Splots.
13. Switch to "Rolled Rag - Terry 120 pixels" I believe this one is under Faux Finish Brushes. (it's squarish in nature unlike similar ones which are round)
14. Create a new layer, using Linear Dodge, 33%
15. Set the foreground color to 80, 59, 24 (a brownish color)
16. Randomly apply the texture
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram8.jpg)
17. Run the following script:
<Brown Splots>
Watercolor - Effect: Watercolor, brush detail:9 shadow density:1 texture :1
Sponge - Effect: sponge, brush size:2, definition: 12, smoothness: 5
Rough Pastels - Effect: rough pastels, stroke length: 25, stroke detail:9, texture type: canvas, scaling: 94, relief: 19, light direction:bottom, without invert texture
Colored Pencil - effect: colored pencil, pencil width: 20, stroke pressure: 5, paper brightness: 0
Reticulation - effect: reticulation, density: 12, foreground level: 40, background level:5
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram9.jpg)
Black splots
18. Create a new layer, normal @ 13%
19. set foreground to black
20. Using the same brush, make more random marks like in #16
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram10.jpg)
Line coloring
21. Reselect your panel lines and run the following script:
<Create white, black lines>
Duplicate current layer - Name : "White lines"
Set Layer Style of current layer - Drop Shadow: Color dodge, Color: pure white, opacity: 87%, distance: 5px, spread:0%, size: 5px
Duplicate Current Layer - name : "black lines"
Set Layer Style of current layer - Drop Shadow: Mulitple, Color: black, opacity: 87%, distance: 5px, spread:0%, size: 5px [Note angle should be opposite of "white lines"
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram11.jpg)
General Large Noise
22. Select the entire area working on (easiest way is to ctrl+click on panel noise layer from #4 in Layers panel).
23. Apply this script:
<Panel Noise>
Select layer "Background" (this is why that layer name was important)
Copy
Paste
Charcoal - Effect: Charcoal, charcoal thickness:1, detail:5, light/dark balance: 50
Set layer to "Vivid Light" @ 31%
Invert
24. If it comes out too bright or too dark, try inverting it again
25. This only seems to work great on larger area though.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram12.jpg)
Colored streaks
26. Select any color (darker red seems to work good)
27. Create a new group
28. Choose a faux type brush of your interest and smear some of it across the panel
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram13.jpg)
29. Choose motion blur and blur it out until it's barely noticeable
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/diagram14.jpg)
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This is all very usefull. I'm sure a lot of us have resorted to using wally (telefragged.com) for some rivet stuff. But this knowledge will allow more flexibility
:) ta Scoob!
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Any chance of a shine map tutorial?? I was searching the net for shine map / specular map but couldn't find a damn thing.
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Any chance of a shine map tutorial?? I was searching the net for shine map / specular map but couldn't find a damn thing.
http://www.iddevnet.com/quake4/ArtReference_SpecularMaps (http://www.iddevnet.com/quake4/ArtReference_SpecularMaps)
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Any chance of a shine map tutorial?? I was searching the net for shine map / specular map but couldn't find a damn thing.
http://www.iddevnet.com/quake4/ArtReference_SpecularMaps (http://www.iddevnet.com/quake4/ArtReference_SpecularMaps)
I like...
although I just collapse all layers->add new layer->flood fill black and then make it transparent.
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Any chance of a shine map tutorial?? I was searching the net for shine map / specular map but couldn't find a damn thing.
http://www.iddevnet.com/quake4/ArtReference_SpecularMaps (http://www.iddevnet.com/quake4/ArtReference_SpecularMaps)
Sweet that works too.
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what about normal maps?
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what about normal maps?
Personally
1. Discard any unbumpable surfaces (aka labels, grim, text....etc)
2. Remove any fake bumping like bevelled bolts.
3. If the texture detail is very dark, adjust the brightness/contrast
4. Merge all detail layers, but not the base layers
5. Desaturate the detail layers
6. If the base texture is detailed in itself (like capital ship textures):
a. copy and add layer paste a premade bump map underneath everything
b. Remove the original base texture.
7. If the base texture is plain
a. Add a new blank layer
b. flood fill it with grey (128,128,128)
8. Save (preferably with -bump)
9. Use one of the normal creator programs to convert it.
10 Save as DXT-5nm
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Question regarding Glass panels, Am I supposed to make a texture for it and UV map it in Lithunwrap for it to show up clear in PCS2? All other 3D programs it shows up clear:
i.e. Deep Exploration, TS 7.6, Rhino 4, Maya 6.5, but when I get it into a cob for PCS it shows up a dark grey opaque mesh? I was wondering if it had to be a closed Mesh polygon to work or if it can be a simple mesh plane.?
Also, I noticed in Lithunwrap it lists -Z (negative Z axis) as front,
and my modeling program (Rhino) says -Y (negative y axis) is the front.
When I brought my model into PCS2 all new points (gun, thrusters, glow, etc..)
were always showing the direction ray pointing 90 degrees to the left of the pilots view? That would be +X?
Which axis is front in a POF for PCS2?
I just want to work things out so my preferences in my default modeling template is meters and always showing the proper axis as the front.
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Now I try to save the Heirarchy with the model showing up right in TS and the SaveAs and Object from the Save menus is greyed out? :hopping: TS is an adventure in futility at times.....
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Can you highlight any "normal map creation programs" mister Doo?
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the object must be selected KewlToyz...
dekker, xnormal and crazybump come to mind as do the nvidia texture tools and the photoshop plugin
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Thanks Pecenipicek :D
What is really driving me nuts is getting TS to read the textures when saving to cob.
I open the in Deep Exploration, all textures, transparency shows up.
I open the cob in PCS2 and it is a dark grey blob :wtf:
I put in the Autogen Thrusters (EngGlow01-01, ect..) like the tutorial says, no thrusters.... :wtf:
I'm drawing a blank,
but it seems TS wipes out all transparency data for the canopy when it saves the cob file or anything is changed in hierarchy?
And TS decides it isn't going to use any textures when making the cob.
[attachment deleted by ninja]
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all textures need to be .bmp's
at least for the step in truespace. as for the canopy, i have no idea how that works, i'm guessing its just an unwrapped model, not connected to the ship with the base texture being basically solid colored with a transparent alpha channel.
IMPORTANT, when exporting from TS 7.6, save object as truespace 6.6 or lower cob. PCS2 doesnt read the UV data correctly from the 7.6 cob. If you forgot how to do it, i showed a very... step by steppish guide in my thread which is stickyed.
also, your EngGlow0x-0x are wrong.
they should be like EngGlow01-0x. also... why the triple ****ing hell do you have so many subobjects?
in any case, if you wish for it just to be transferred to pof, you can send the model to me, my e-mail adress is in my profile.
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The nvidia plugins with the dds file systems for photoshop?
i'll have a look through, also gonna get that xnormal thing........
*colonol dekker is having another never sleeps day today :rolleyes:*
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yes dekker, yes :p XD
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Yeesh Xnormal is 70+ meg, i'll try crazy bump instead.
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crazybump is... wonky to me. xnormal is basically a renderer.(mighty good one)
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all textures need to be .bmp's
at least for the step in truespace. as for the canopy, i have no idea how that works, i'm guessing its just an unwrapped model, not connected to the ship with the base texture being basically solid colored with a transparent alpha channel.
IMPORTANT, when exporting from TS 7.6, save object as truespace 6.6 or lower cob. PCS2 doesnt read the UV data correctly from the 7.6 cob. If you forgot how to do it, i showed a very... step by steppish guide in my thread which is stickyed.
also, your EngGlow0x-0x are wrong.
they should be like EngGlow01-0x. also... why the triple ****ing hell do you have so many subobjects?
in any case, if you wish for it just to be transferred to pof, you can send the model to me, my e-mail adress is in my profile.
I'm still just trying to figure out how much should be separated with the subobjects.
They were bmp's, and after opening Lithunwrap to look at the assembled model I found out they all got corrupted somehow.
Why I have no clue?
I was trying to figure out the textures so I left everything as separate pieces to do each texture.
I didn't know if I should make them each separate or children of the main object for each system.
Or join as many objects together as possible and just make decal maps of the exterior.
I'll send you a file to give me a few pointers about it if you can. I was really surprised by the offer m8, thanks again.
What format of file should I send?
I can't beleive how long this is taking me to get it right.
I forgot about the version # cob....duhhhhhhh :p thanks man
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whichever file truespace or cinema 4d read. (3ds, obj, cob, scn, wrl, x, fbx, dae,...)
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Unforunately crazybump is no longer free, so I've swtiched to Xnormals.
Thanks Pecenipicek :D
What is really driving me nuts is getting TS to read the textures when saving to cob.
I open the in Deep Exploration, all textures, transparency shows up.
I open the cob in PCS2 and it is a dark grey blob :wtf:
I put in the Autogen Thrusters (EngGlow01-01, ect..) like the tutorial says, no thrusters.... :wtf:
I'm drawing a blank,
but it seems TS wipes out all transparency data for the canopy when it saves the cob file or anything is changed in hierarchy?
And TS decides it isn't going to use any textures when making the cob.
As already said, it's EngGlow0X-0Y where X is the glow bank, and Y is the glow point. Fighters usually have just one glow blank (X) but can have more than one glow point (Y).
Also get rid of all those subsystems, I've found out that pcs2 doesn't like too many of them. Also detail1 should be detail0.
As for textures, transparency doesn't matter in truespace, fs2 won't use it anyways. The transparency is dependant on the texture alone. If you look at my Additional-required*.vp file theres a glass.dds file. For the rest of the textures, you'll probably have to reassign them within truespace. Hint: you can paint a group of objects all at once.
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Thanks guys! As usual great help and many thanks gentlemen!
I'll get some things together tonight. I may just use my web space to post the files.
(another project I never got back to, I have 4 domains and a full web ASPNET server with SQL 2005 I was planning to do DotNetNuke forums on.
Once I get the hang of a few models I'm diving into the FS2 open code to see if I can volunteer to help out development with the tedious logic.
In the mean time I'm going to make an ftp area on there for some of these models, I'll let you gents know in case you want some model upload/download space available, or in case the community needs to have some extra space on an update rush I'll help and make some bandwidth available. No sense in it lying dormant all of the time.)
I will have to learn how to paint the transparent textures in TS 7.6 then. ...sigh.... that interface is just tough to deal with.
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I will have to learn how to paint the transparent textures in TS 7.6
Why? Unless you plan on doing renders in TS. Otherwise just do what is suitable for PCS2/FSO, which is using the alpha channel on the diffuse map.
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My normal maps are showing as dodgy'ish. I used the NVidia-photoshop plugins. Any setting preferences as my map is kinda blue, i noticed the assets.vp maps are kinda green hence the question.
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My normal maps are showing as dodgy'ish. I used the NVidia-photoshop plugins. Any setting preferences as my map is kinda blue, i noticed the assets.vp maps are kinda green hence the question.
Herra Tohtori covered this in his first post in this thread --> http://www.hard-light.net/forums/index.php/topic,55854.0.html (http://www.hard-light.net/forums/index.php/topic,55854.0.html)
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I will have to learn how to paint the transparent textures in TS 7.6
Why? Unless you plan on doing renders in TS. Otherwise just do what is suitable for PCS2/FSO, which is using the alpha channel on the diffuse map.
???? I need to set the alpha channel in my paint program or which program????
If I missed it I apologize, I couldn't find the alpha channels in PSP 7 for a bmp.
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I will have to learn how to paint the transparent textures in TS 7.6
Why? Unless you plan on doing renders in TS. Otherwise just do what is suitable for PCS2/FSO, which is using the alpha channel on the diffuse map.
???? I need to set the alpha channel in my paint program or which program????
If I missed it I apologize, I couldn't find the alpha channels in PSP 7 for a bmp.
BMP can't be saved with an alpha channel. So you would need to save as either tga or dds. TGA is better for testing - less messing around.
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OK, Lithunwrap reads only BMP from what I see, so I save the BMP in PSP as TGA with the alpha channel set for transparency and edit the image file referenced in TS or any other program able to edit the texture name like Deep Explorer 5?
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OK, Lithunwrap reads only BMP from what I see, so I save the BMP in PSP as TGA with the alpha channel set for transparency and edit the image file referenced in TS or any other program able to edit the texture name like Deep Explorer 5?
I think you are mixing texture issues with conversion problems. Ignore tranparency for now - sort out the conversion problems first.
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you only need bmp temporarily for truespace to actually import the UV data. you can alter the texture name in a pof editor later. your bmp files can basically be a 1x1 blue/black/whichever color you fancy.
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The POF editor never seems to have the textures when opening the cob file but I see them in TS?
Do I have to add them manually?
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The POF editor never seems to have the textures when opening the cob file but I see them in TS?
Do I have to add them manually?
No. Excluding any problem with TS, try this
In PCS2 - Options> Preferences. Type in the box ./ and then hit add.
This means any textures in the same directory as the cob will be found by PCS2 and loaded. (Making it difficult for new pcs2 users is a side goal of the software)
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LOL!
Well so far I have elected to not use TS at all. Too much time spent with it and it has yet to do the job.
Deep Exploration is making a cob I can view and modify and brings in the textures to PCS2 everytime.
I can manually create the rest in PCS2, no more difficult than anywhere else.
I may try using object names and geometry for AutoGen in Rhino now that I am seeing some of these objects come through finally.
I am however crossing my fingers that the cob actually compiles to a pof.
What are the possible texture ID's for the glow points?
And do I just put in Thruster instead of Engine for the little manuevering thrusters on the thrusters section?
How many banks do I use in Thrusters & Glow Points?
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And do I just put in Thruster instead of Engine for the little manuevering thrusters on the thrusters section?
Open up a bsg viper fighter pof and associated table, it's a good way to learn.
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I did, and the little thruster plumes are no where to be seen in the pof file so it must be part of the vp files?
Unless the Vipers I opened were 3rd party :ick:
Here is a download link for my model files.
I cannot get PCS2 to make a POF, it always just sits tying up my dual core at 95% going nowhere everytime I try to save.
http://www.kewltoyz.com/downloads/ViperMkV-Model.zip
I'll go ahead and upload my most recent cob too with the textures included.
I never see the lights when it imports from TS so I didnt bother making all of the glued lighting groups with Deep Explorer either. But I did finally get the grouping the way I wanted it.
I'll post a link for that cob shortly. Maybe you guys know why it won't compile.
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I did, and the little thruster plumes are no where to be seen in the pof file so it must be part of the vp files?
Unless the Vipers I opened were 3rd party :ick:
Here is a download link for my model files.
I cannot get PCS2 to make a POF, it always just sits tying up my dual core at 95% going nowhere everytime I try to save.
I'll go ahead and upload my most recent cob too with the textures included.
I'll post a link for that cob shortly. Maybe you guys know why it won't compile.
First - the parts I checked don't have a uv map. So thats not a pcs2 problem. Forget the thrusters till you solve this issue. They are special fx anyway.
Does Rhino do uv mapping?
Also fighters tend to have one map only. HTL ones go up to three - main + cockpit + glass.
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Rhino doesn't with its core application.
It reads them fine though once mapped. It will do textures applied to surfaces.
There are some advanced texture features I haven't figured out yet but I'll get there.
I got it mapped fairly easily though with Lithunwrap.
As far as making the POF's:
I found the Canopy was killing me on poly's as well as the objects I tried to combine to reduce the subsystems. Instead grouping items before saving to cob, then tweaking the cob was much easier with DE.
Dont have to mess with the light nightmare of TS either.
I'm using Deep Explorer, TS serves no purpose for me whatsoever.
Download the pof files here:
http://www.kewltoyz.com/downloads/VipMkV.zip
Now I just have to figure out the texturing for the transparent canopy.
I tried saving a transparent background image in PSP7 and it made it white everytime.
I even tried painting it black since that is supposed to be what aplha reads as transparent, and the thing still turned white during conversions. Not sure why yet. Next I add a nice dash and start upgrading texture details.
I'll try to place them all on one texture soon. Not sure how I merge objects in Lithunwrap and still map the shapes all on one image yet. Just starting to understand it. So far, Lithunwrap, Rhino, Deep Explorer are the only things I needed though. Just takes time to figure out my tools quirks. I really am glad I have you guys willing to help me get a handle on it, thanks!
Check out the pof and let me know if it is too horrible.....
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Now I just have to figure out the texturing for the transparent canopy.
Open the glass texture - then get the eraser and set it to 50% - use it in one pass over the image. Save as TGA - Done
The higher the eraser % the more transparent it becomes.
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first off. REDUCE THE NUMBER OF OBJECTS AND TEXTURES. combine as many as possible, the canopy doesnt need to be so detailed. the lowest possible number of textures possible is needed. and just so you know, i am not touching your model with a ten foot pole. modelling doesnt work that way.
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first off. REDUCE THE NUMBER OF OBJECTS AND TEXTURES. combine as many as possible, the canopy doesnt need to be so detailed. the lowest possible number of textures possible is needed. and just so you know, i am not touching your model with a ten foot pole. modelling doesnt work that way.
I got the Canopy down to 250 from the original 1500.
I can take it down further but I have to figure out how to set the AA for some objects without losing the angular look of the others. As far as touching the model, I just wanted it available to find out what was preventing it from compiling before. Usually the source is the quickest way. I figured out how to reduce the number of objects last night with grouping in DE. I was just happy I finally got one to compile into a POF.
Now I just have to figure out the texturing for the transparent canopy.
Open the glass texture - then get the eraser and set it to 50% - use it in one pass over the image. Save as TGA - Done
The higher the eraser % the more transparent it becomes.
Thanks Water! I'll check into it today.
I can finally move into the texture end of things.
Again I appreciate the help guys.
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So far opacity doesnt work it is all opaque or nothing displays with the tools I am using?
I tried searching the forums but I'm finding people with the same issues back to 2003.
I can see it is possible in the MkVII pof just not sure how with PSP7.
I tried the eraser technique but the format doesnt make it partially transparent.
I tried DXTbmp with dss file formats but still all opaque or all clear.
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So far opacity doesnt work it is all opaque or nothing displays with the tools I am using?
I tried searching the forums but I'm finding people with the same issues back to 2003.
I can see it is possible in the MkVII pof just not sure how with PSP7.
I tried the eraser technique but the format doesnt make it partially transparent.
I tried DXTbmp with dss file formats but still all opaque or all clear.
Attached is a tga. It is a simple cloud filter on white. Then erased by 50%
PCS2 will show it on the model as mostly transparent. If psp7 doesn't show the transparency checkers then you would need to find out why.
In gimp and pcs2 it works fine. Search for psp transparency or alpha tutorials.
On the next model try to keep the mesh as one continuous piece.
[attachment deleted by ninja]
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Here's something that'll be useful for the future Kewl. Take your cockpit out of your model, make a pof of just it. Then in your model make a very simiplified cockpit. Most of my cockpits (minus the glass which isn't much in-itself) are only about 500 polys. When they get external cockpit completely working, then you can use your fancy version.
Also I rarely make a model with just one object. It's a bit harder to uvmap, but a lot easier to model and lod.
Oh and for your cockpit textures do something a bit like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/Shodan_AI/Extras/extras-2.jpg)
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Thanks guys, wicked Textures m8!
I got it into the game and it flies backwards lol! I was 180 degrees off, it has to have the nose in the positive X axis in Rhino to start pointing the right way. Also it was 1/2 the size it is supposed to be. So I am changing the cob conversion factor in PCS2 to 2.0 because I tested it at 1 for this first attempt. I used meters for the model but the conversions are a bit funky on scale.
I'm also worried because the engine glow shows up 360 degrees around the ship.
I'm curious if it is because the center point was slightly inside the main hull wall so I am figuring that caused the failure.
Also I found the mesh had some stray useless internal poly's generated by one of the conversion processes so I redid the main hull completely.
Another strange phenomenon; the guns show shooting the right way externally but they don't show up from normal FPS view.
Likely caused by some of my ships.tbl settings and the model being 180 out though.
I also found some pieces were out of alignment and actually into other parts which caused display clipping by the time it went into PCS2.
Anyway I am reducing the poly counts now and yes I am keeping all of the parts separate until I build the pof.
I can map each part individually with the entire model in lithunwrap and arrange them onto one or more sheets now though.
I figured a maximum of 3 textures I'll use now that I am getting the process figured out.
When it goes from cob to pof it will combine the parts into one object that can exceed the 250 limit, but each object alone needs to remain below that. And yes that cockpit has to go! :D
I'm finding I can add other details with small pieces and remove the details from the main pieces to become lod's.
I'll definately start messing with that glass texture as soon as I get this re-work done.
After this one is done I'm going to make the StealthStar then finally the cap ships.
I hope to make a full mission including the Hybrid Baseship and some Mk1 Raiders, but it looks like I won't be done until Christmas at this rate :p
Actually I think it will get faster as I go now that I know what I am looking at.
It really helps to have you guys around though!!! Many thanks!
One curiosity, how do I get the textures from a pof?
I was trying to see how the canopy was done on the Mk7
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Hey Water, thanks on The GIMP I forgot all about this proggy.
PSP7 is acting funky on Vista so I think this offers a good alternative :D
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Textures are not IN or attached directly with a pof, merely referenced to teh texture folder (separate file).
Textures for the M7 Viper are either in a VP texture Dir folder, a data texture folder (like one of my experiments is) or some otehr place a modeler has, maybe the same Dir as the original mesh.
I was gonna try to upload the textue but got confused:
I see 7 textures... 1 for pilot (used by all vipers) and two sets of M7 textures as if they are for two different m7's
Viperseven.dds (and glow/shine) 3 textures
and
Vipermkseven.dds (and glow/shine) 3 textures
Must be another mk7 viper pof added somewhere or to be added later?
Take a look, they are in the BTRL demo Root Vp...
L8tr! :)
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One curiosity, how do I get the textures from a pof?
I was trying to see how the canopy was done on the Mk7
The pof only holds the texture name. In PCS2 click on textures - It will list the texture names for all the parts. The maps directory in the vp has the actual texture files.
When it goes from cob to pof it will combine the parts into one object that can exceed the 250 limit, but each object alone needs to remain below that.
What limit is this for? PCS1 did have a limit of roughly 9k per object.
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I'm not sure about the actual valid limits but so far that seems to be where it hangs for me.
If the combination is the max limit of 9k then I got another number to look at. I've reduced the amount of polys in each object so far still working the texture mapping though before my next version.
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I'm not sure about the actual valid limits but so far that seems to be where it hangs for me.
If the combination is the max limit of 9k then I got another number to look at. I've reduced the amount of polys in each object so far still working the texture mapping though before my next version.
That number was for pcs1 not 2.
Made two pofs, as is, and also combining all non cockpit stuff together. Both exported fine. You are looking at less than 3.5k all joined together.
But others have reported that the software doesn't work for them.
This is the merged version. (cob) Run it through pcs2. If it works then your export method is faulty. If not then pcs doesn't like your machine. http://files.filefront.com/ViperMkV+3zip/;11739296;/fileinfo.html (http://files.filefront.com/ViperMkV+3zip/;11739296;/fileinfo.html)
Another thing you need to take care of is that some of your meshes have normals facing both ways. Only normals facing outward will be visible in game, the faces with inverted normal will be invisible.
If you can get it to convert -have a look at the pilot to see random faces missing.
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mm, about converting, how many polys per object are possible?
since my solid 120k poly mesh doesnt wish to convert :p
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mm, about converting, how many polys per object are possible?
since my solid 120k poly mesh doesnt wish to convert :p
That's the original reason I don't do solid mesh conversions. Break it up into subobjects and start doing a binary search.
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binary search?
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binary search?
Take half the subobjects out... try to build. If build failed, take another half out. If the build successed, put half back in. Rinse and repeat, shouldn't take very long to narrow the problamtic subobject.
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oh. nah, no need to be honest, it was just a random attempt to getting a model in, its basically hugely smoothed and thats pretty much the only reason it needs that polycount somewhat. i was just thinking if it'd be possible to actually punt the bugger ingame.
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Well thats what I used to end up doing with PCS1 because it would lock up so much.
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Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Never hit undo in Lithunwrap!
4 times I've had to start over :mad: :hopping: :confused: :shaking: :eek2: :wtf: :D
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Can someone explain what I'm doing wrong in regard to the original thread tut?
I applied a solid black texture to the ship as a place holder and then followed the
instructions, but I'm ending up with the ship in frontal view with the textporter output, rather
than the pieces laid out in some organized fashion.
Using Max 7 here...
[attachment stolen by Slimey Goober]
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I assume you uv mapped the model already?
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The model included a UV map, however it doesn't appear to fit with anything provided.
On that thought, going to ask another resource about how it's been setup, I'll perhaps be back with a different question.
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Scoob, you did a tutorial on glowmaps on page one but how do you make animated glow maps?
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Depends which softw3are you use, you can either render animated textures from the something liuke max. (bake) or output a single glowmap and use Animation shop or imageready (dunno about gimp :nervous:) to apply effects to it.
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Actually I'm looking for a way to rebake the animation. The pulsing green viens was applied to a square planar and rendered as avi. But I have to bake that animation glowmap and a different glow on top of it. I'm thinking the only way right now is to bake frame by frame.
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frame by frame bakes are a default if you want something a bit more useable in-game... i'll throw up something soon when i rebuild my main rig.
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yeah, select tga or jpg instead of avi as an output. Then use Infrview (sp?) to apply batchj colour correction / conversion to dds then use an .eff file to make it work.
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Found it, it's rather stupid though. They go into the default 3dmax\sceneassets\images folder and named after the object, not the filename you wanted.
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I should really update this with my newer texturing style.
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Yes you should. :P
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Thank you so much! I've been pondering time and time again how these things are done (again, I'm fresh out of the boat when it comes to well, everything. Modeling. Texturing. Etc) and now I finally have a point in the right direction ;)
Honest answer here, how hard do you reckon it would be for someone who has had say about, 2-3 months experience in modeling and maybe 6 in photoshop to do this? :P
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I should really update this with my newer texturing style.
It's been a year so yeah. :)