Hard Light Productions Forums
Off-Topic Discussion => Arts & Talents => Topic started by: Martinus on June 21, 2005, 09:34:25 pm
-
Been working on a little something over the past week, I have to admit that excitement's got the better of me so I'm posting some poorly lit photos.
Anyhow, they get the idea across until I can take better ones (i.e. during the day and not at 3am ;) ).
UPDATE: I decided to release the model layout, you can get it here: REMOVED
It's in PDF format and has no instructions, if you view the CG model for reference you shouldn't have too much trouble. Print pages 1 to 5 on stiff paper and 6 on lighter stuff. This will give you the Orion model without turrets and radar dishes.
EDIT: 03-03-08 - I uploaded the .pdo (pepakura), textures and the .PDF that I built. Feel free to use/modify/experiment, the only thing I ask is that if you make your own Orion please send me a photo or post one here. :)
Model (http://staff.hard-light.net/maeglamor/orion.7z)
-
[color=66ff00]
An Orion vs. Beatrix? I'm putting my money on the Hanzo. ;)
(http://www.3dap.com/hlp/staff/maeglamor/orion/6.jpg)
And a few I took during the build using my camera phone:
(http://www.3dap.com/hlp/staff/maeglamor/orion/7.jpg)
(http://www.3dap.com/hlp/staff/maeglamor/orion/8.jpg)
(http://www.3dap.com/hlp/staff/maeglamor/orion/9.jpg)
I'm working on cleaning up the layout and it still needs all the greeblies (turrets, radar dishes, etc.) but short of a bit of tidying up it's quite a decent model.
A few of the UV's are screwed up so if anyone with photoshop would care to do a bit of quick fixing on the model layout it would be most appreciated.
[/color]
-
That. Is stunning. Even for an ugly amalgamation of blocks.
-
Wow. Kick ASS! :D Dude, you should highlight...um...yourself. Lol, what sort of paper did you use?
-
:lol:
:yes:
You will have to tell us the technique you used to get a 3d model onto cut out format.
-
Originally posted by Unknown Target
Wow. Kick ASS! :D Dude, you should highlight...um...yourself. Lol, what sort of paper did you use?
[color=66ff00]Cheers, it took 6 sheets of A4 sized 300gramme card. Basically it's just a little stiffer than cereal packet card. The finished model is about 35cm long.
BTW I must say a big thankyou to Raa for providing the mesh in the first place.
Grug: It's a program called Pepakura.
[/color]
-
*Raa has been working on a version of the Satis, with limited Success. He will most likely move onto another model*
-
The Anuket? ;)
Great job Maeg. Looks terrific. :yes:
-
Originally posted by Goober5000
The Anuket? ;)
Scarily enough:
[22:52] Raa: ooh! Pepakura Anuket!
-
I was considering this at one point...
Good job though, looking nice!
-
You aready know what I think, but DAMN, that's sweet. :)
-
Sufficiently awesome.
-
Originally posted by Unknown Target
Dude, you should highlight...um...yourself. Lol, what sort of paper did you use?
Nah, that's gratuitous self-pimpage. If someone else did it, on the other hand... ;)
-
What better interests me: How did you apply the textures on it?
-
That's really good
-
Superb work there :yes:
-
Anyone else noticed that, after like a month of no new news, we get like 6 News updates and 3 Highlights...in the span of what, a day? 2?
-
I want one.
-
Originally posted by Jetmech Jr.
Anyone else noticed that, after like a month of no new news, we get like 6 News updates and 3 Highlights...in the span of what, a day? 2?
It's called, "Setekh gets free time".
-
sweet dude!
:D
-
Originally posted by aldo_14
I want one.
Hell yes... :eek:
-
Originally posted by Raa
Scarily enough:
[22:52] Raa: ooh! Pepakura Anuket!
[color=66ff00]Except for me it was:
[03:52] Raa: ooh! Pepakura Anuket!
;)
[/color]
-
Astonishing. :nod:
-
You win.
-
I want one of those...
Can you make a .pdf or something of....instructions....or something of the like? Peparuka is...lost on me.
And make a Herc.
-
Heh... Now we have to somehow import it to FRED.
Seriously, amazing stuff. Make instructions for us mortals.
-
Absolutely incredible :D
-
How long is the model?
-
Originally posted by FireCrack
How long is the model?
Originally posted by Maeglamor
[color=66ff00]Cheers, it took 6 sheets of A4 sized 300gramme card. Basically it's just a little stiffer than cereal packet card. The finished model is about 35cm long.
BTW I must say a big thankyou to Raa for providing the mesh in the first place.
Grug: It's a program called Pepakura.
[/color]
-
ok, i concur.
-
Originally posted by Ghost
Make instructions for us mortals.
[color=66ff00]I would have but there are still a few issues with the current layout of the model, the model is effectively a beta as it's a case of:
Manipulate the model to form a layout.
Change the layout attempting to make the building process straightforward.
Build the model taking notes on what was easy/hard
Change the layout again to attempt to remove or alleviate the harder parts of the build.
Another thing building the model gives you is an appreciation for what parts you make out of stiffer paper and which parts you can use the lighter stuff on. In the case of the Orion you want to build most of the hull out of the stiffer paper (300 gramme). Turrets and the like are comparitively small so you need to print them onto lighter paper otherwise you won't even be able to fold them into shape properly nevermind glue them together.
I need a few small things before I can finish the model and thus the layout:
Simpler guns.
A radar dish mount that attaches to the dish.
A bit of photoshopping or mesh editing to fix the UV problems the following (poor, apologies) photos illustrate.
(http://www.3dap.com/hlp/staff/maeglamor/orion/uv1.jpg)
(http://www.3dap.com/hlp/staff/maeglamor/orion/uv2.jpg)
Any takers?
[/color]
-
Ouch. Hmm.
I'd still like to know how that happened. But either way, wouldn't it be more an issue of fixing the large bmp pepakura generates, rather than touching the model?
-
now... to my HTL version
-
Have fun, Bob.
-
:eek: fantastic, dude. :yes2::D:yes:
I give it a hot vote. :D
-
Ok, Maeg? Get a better camera. Seriously. :p
-
Actually, you might be able to use the heavier stuff for the turrets and smaller details, just use a knife, like an exacto or something, and make a shallow score in the paper where you want to fold it.
Art class is cool....
-
No, no no. Let me tell you, I'm doing one of the Satis right now, and it is TOUGH! The small scale is difficult to work with. My Satis fits in the palm of my hand. And I'm using paper half the weight of the paper he's using. And... anything smaller (model wise) will be impossible, no matter how well you score the paper.
-
Why are you making it so small then??? Scale?
Too bad there aren't any model companies that would make plastic kits of this stuff. Can you imagine having an Orion with a bunch of little Valkyries on the flight deck, kinda like one of those aircraft carrier models? That would be cool.......Alas.
-
Originally posted by Paragon
Actually, you might be able to use the heavier stuff for the turrets and smaller details, just use a knife, like an exacto or something, and make a shallow score in the paper where you want to fold it.
Art class is cool....
[color=66ff00]Paragon: For cutting I use a medical scalpel and a steel ruler to ensure line straightness.
Scoring with a blade is a bad idea, it weakens the paper too much and can lead to failure. What you want to do is get a small nail and a file, file the tip from a point to a rounded profile and use it to imprint a line in the paper. The paper undergoes far less damage and the imprinted line allows you to make a fold easily. :nod:
All of the flaps on the model are 'scored' on the top of the paper (printed side) all of the other folds are scored on the back of the paper, it looks better.
Sandwich: I actually have a JVC GC-S1 that my aunt and uncle gave me when they bought a newer camera, it's just that I'm not a very good photographer. Also in order to get pictures off the camera I have to send them one by one via IRDA to my laptop then transfer them to my main PC. It's quicker to just snap some shots off with the camera phone which is directly attached to main PC.
So sue me, I'm not going through all that trouble to get better rez. shots of UV corruption. :p
[/color]
-
Originally posted by Paragon
Why are you making it so small then??? Scale?
Because a replacement innk cartridge for my printer just cost me 35.00. That's why :p
-
Haha, medical scalpel. Do you mind if I call you the mad doctor from now on?
The rounded nail sounds like it would work pretty well too, I guess I'm used to working with heavier material than you're using.
Although seriously, I'd like some sort of...blueprint, or something, I like building stuff.
Raa: Yeah I can see how that would be a problem. I usually work with paint on my models. Tried using clay once for models. I lost the Apollo I made a long time ago though.
-
Originally posted by Paragon
Haha, medical scalpel. Do you mind if I call you the mad doctor from now on?
The rounded nail sounds like it would work pretty well too, I guess I'm used to working with heavier material than you're using.
Although seriously, I'd like some sort of...blueprint, or something, I like building stuff.
[color=66ff00]As I stated before, a blueprint (layout) will be made available when someone cleans up the UV problems.
[/color]
-
Uhhh...yeah, call me stupid, but I don't quite understand what in the world that means, so I'll take your word for it.
-
[color=66ff00]Read the rest of the thread dude. :)
[/color]
-
Allow me to restate that: I don't know what UV problems means. The only time I've heard the initials UV, was referring to ultra violet...and I'm not sure thats what you mean...
-
It means that the model properties that indicated where on the texture each corner of the polygon lies has been corrupted somehow on conversion. I agree with other comments though; it's sure to be easier to fix on the output file than on the digital model.
-
(http://game-warden.com/raa/temp/satis/satis1.jpg)
(http://game-warden.com/raa/temp/satis/satis2.jpg)
(http://game-warden.com/raa/temp/satis/satis3.jpg)
The quarter is for size comparison...
The model was quite small, and difficult to finish making.
(Which is why it looks like ****e)
-
Dude...sweet.
-
WMC: Those new pictures are sweet.
Raa: I think the white edges make it look a lot worse then it is.
-
Fighters!!!!!!!!!!! Please???
-
I intend to have a thoth soon.....
-
:yes: Sweet stuff! This would make a great graphical mod, everything made to look like it's made of paper.
-
Hm. Someone should make a stop-motion FS cutscene using paper models... ;7
-
Jesus. Stop saying these things, Goob, you're only going to make people do them.
-
Don't you know that's right!!! Where's my camera??????
-
Gateway 2000... Poor guy :(.
But it is still awesome.
-
Originally posted by Scuddie
Gateway 2000... Poor guy :(.
But it is still awesome.
:lol:
Only the monitor. My dad found it somewhere, and I use it as my secondary.
My PC is a custom made AMD 2800+
-
So which are you doing next Raa?
Same for you Maeg...
-
Originally posted by Paragon
So which are you doing next Raa?
Same for you Maeg...
[color=66ff00]Nothing until I finish the Orion.
I've got a lot of other stuff to do as well.
[/color]
-
Aww, darn.
-
I was toying with the idea of a Thoth, but it's being difficult. Unlike the Satis (Which Maeg tweaked for me, so I cannot even take credit for that)
-
alas... I lack a color printer.
-
on a only slightly related not, this thing would rock as a UV mapping aid, the way it lays things out ensures uniform density.
-
*wants to see a Fenris*
-
Bob, you should make the tabs a different color so its easier to see. And when its in pieces like that....I can't figure out what it is....quite. Nephalim? Azrael?....I'm not good at figuring out......
-
basilisk, and if the tabs are a diferent color they'll show seams
-
NOW I see it!!! Good point about the tabs too...
So if I print that out, I'll be able to cut it up, and make a Basilisk from it, in theory, right?
-
Originally posted by Bobboau
basilisk, and if the tabs are a diferent color they'll show seams
Okay, well keep the tabs white and change the background color then.
-
[color=66ff00]No need, just make a copy of the layout with white tabs and white foldlines, you don't even need to print it out, just use it for reference. :nod:
BTW nice work Bob. :yes:
[/color]
-
[color=66ff00]Bump: Check first post for the Orion layout.
[/color]
-
I want to see Bob's High Poly Orion :p
-
Originally posted by redmenace
I want to see Bob's High Poly Orion :p
[color=66ff00]It would be an utter ***** to build. You'd have to make it very large to fit the detail in.
[/color]
-
hey, what kind of glue are you using? I've picked up some 148g/m^2 cover stock, printed out a Hermes, found out that the tabs it gave me aren't on important seams (like holding the roof on? :rolleyes: ), so i printed the orion (plus the last sheet on regular computer paper), and am about to start cutting... I tried the hermes with a glue stick, and it did work, but not very well considering how small the tabs were... Should i pick up some super-glue, or rubber cement, or 2-tonne epoxy?
-
I'd think that your standard Elmer's glue would work best, no?
-
I'll buy all the kinds :p And make an uber-glue!
-
I remember mentioning this concept to the community a while ago...I needed the Herc and Fenris models. Didn't seem to be much interest back then...times change.
You should submit your models to Paper Starships (http://paperstarships.tengun.net/), a website that started with Homeworld paper models and is slowly expanding to include other universes as well.
-
Dangit.
I had forgotten to mention those folks, though I meant to...
-
I have sence improved on my Basilisk BTW, not sure what sort of glue I should be useing my self, was useing two sided tape with some good effect, but details (like the nose or the laser pods on the front of the engines) don't seem to work well with the tape method, and I've only been able to print in black and white, poorly, on normal laser printer paper. it is enough to test it out though.
this new version is bigger, higher resolution, and at least somewhat easier to assemble. I made some minor geometry changes to allow for a doable paper model, most of the changes should be so small you would only see them if you were looking for them, with the origonal model on the screen, and had some hints.
-
http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/group_id/2034/Sobo-Glue.htm
-
bob; use the do-not-cut tool a bit, and you'll get that in less pieces...
-
I am aware of that tool, I used it, try and get it in fewer peices (without it being a total chaotic mess)
-
[color=66ff00]Bob I advise that you build that thing yourself even if it is in black and white, it'll give you a feeling for which bits work better seperate.
I tried to connect too much on the first run and it ended up making parts of the build particularly (needlessly) tricky.
As for the glue: I used a solvent based glue which was a cheaper version of stuff that goes by the brand name 'Uhu' over here. It wasn't great but it was much better than one of those glue sticks (prit-stick and the like). Only downside is the amount of ventilation you need to stop losing brain cells with the solvent stuff.
[/color]
-
Elmers is working a-ok for me... I've got the nose assembled (the one piece deal, plus the cancerous blob on the side), the entire right side of the main body(looking down with the nose at the top), the back (minus the engines), and the top is cut and folded, but needs attatching...
[q]Bob I advise that you build that thing yourself even if it is in black and white, it'll give you a feeling for which bits work better seperate.[/q]
Yeah, your model may look pretty simple there, but every one of those tabs is a nightmare... Look at the bottom center, where it has all those dotted lines. Those will NOT be easy to attatch to that mass of tabs at the bottom...
I'll put up some pictures of that i've got sometime late tonight once i find my camera...
-
Originally posted by Hippo
Elmers is working a-ok for me... I've got the nose assembled (the one piece deal, plus the cancerous blob on the side), the entire right side of the main body(looking down with the nose at the top), the back (minus the engines), and the top is cut and folded, but needs attatching...
[q]Bob I advise that you build that thing yourself even if it is in black and white, it'll give you a feeling for which bits work better seperate.[/q]
Yeah, your model may look pretty simple there, but every one of those tabs is a nightmare... Look at the bottom center, where it has all those dotted lines. Those will NOT be easy to attatch to that mass of tabs at the bottom...
I'll put up some pictures of that i've got sometime late tonight once i find my camera...
[color=66ff00]If you're going to build the Orion build the bottom and sides first, attach the top after you connect the nose to the main hull.
[/color]
-
ok, i'll start the last side and bottom then... I have to admit though, using regular computer paper for page 6 was a bad idea with elmers :ick: it got all soggy :p ...
-
Originally posted by Hippo
ok, i'll start the last side and bottom then... I have to admit though, using regular computer paper for page 6 was a bad idea with elmers :ick: it got all soggy :p ...
[color=66ff00]Don't forget to give me your appraisal of the layout, tell me what you think needs changed to make the model easier to build. :nod:
Are you having much difficulty identifying which parts go where?
[/color]
-
mmh, about the tabs and the seams... you think WHITE tabs will make non viosible seams? Try black, man.
-
its actually pretty strait forward where it all goes, though i have modelview open to it so i can figure out what piece i should do next...
One thing that would be nice to change, would be that a lot of the pieces (but not the one i started with ironically (the side and fighterbay)) have really complicated methods of tabbing and connections... That's also probably the hardest part to change too...
The linked pieces are working well, minus the piece at the top left here (http://www.3dap.com/hlp/staff/maeglamor/orion/7.jpg), which was just plain annoying to get seated right...
*looks at remaining parts and pdf (and future complications?)*
- I've got the piece on the left of page 3 left, but its pretty self explanatory where it goes...
- Al but 2 of page six left to do (i got the one on the nose and beside the fighterbay), but the ones that aren't the engies are going to be tricky to get... What if you put a little letter beside each one on the page, and then in the tabs of the area one must cut out in the model (ex: center of p1), put the corrisponding letter? I'm looking at things like the top left of p6 and can't remember were it goes (though i know i've seen it before)...
- Maybe I just haven't found it yet, but there's a notch in the nose piece where a random triangular prism is supposed to go in the modelview version, and i can't seem to find it yet... (Figure A)
- Some of the textures are messed up (not just the uv's)... See attatcment for examples(Figure B1 and B2)... I outlined the same square on the map, and drew a line from the vertex of the triangle thing strait back... Notice the box's difference in positions?
- I know that the top of page 2 is the bottom of the model, but (and i'll admit i haven't looked in MV for them) i haven't found a place for the other two parts...
And that's about all for now... I'll keep you updated on anything that could be better.
Oh, and i wrote:
[q]Const. July 2005 - Hippo
Plans Summer 2005 - Maeglamor[/q]
On the inside of the engine pods along with the HLP logo printed out and glued inside :p ...
(http://woodentoyandgift.com/files/stuff/appraisal.jpg)
-
who ever said I wasn't building them, if I wasn't I wouldn't have made a second version that corected some hard to assemble parts.
-
Originally posted by Bobboau
who ever said I wasn't building them, if I wasn't I wouldn't have made a second version that corected some hard to assemble parts.
[color=66ff00]Ah, it was me Bob. I just meant it as a suggestion and assumed you were still without ink.
Post some pics if you have the capacity. :nod:
I'll try to compile a few screenshots to help you out Hippo, as for the textures; I hadn't noticed. :nervous: :)
[/color]
-
[color=66ff00]I took a quick look at the PDF and realised that it's removed the 'cut' label from the fighterbay entrance. It's there because the texture usually applied to that polygon is transparent and it's easier just to mark it than change the mesh.
The fighterbay internals is the first part on the bottom of page 6, the prism that you pointed out in your diagram is at the bottom of page 6 in the middle. The tab you pointed out seems to be some kind of mesh muckup again, when it's folded into position and glued it doesn't really get in the way.
The texture mess-ups seem to be a problem with whatever way pepakura handles the mesh and its UV's. I noticed this on a much more obvious level when I used a fenris mesh. Textures were positioned incorrectly. I think the best fix is to get the layout and edit it in photoshop/PSP etc. Trying to rebuild the mesh and UV's seems like far too much hassle.
[/color]
-
Hm... guess i have to put the fighterbay interior in then... That could be difficult... *dons scissors and glue*
Dons really isn't the right word, is it ;) :D
-
Originally posted by Hippo
Dons really isn't the right word, is it ;) :D
No. :lol:
-
I want to see a Deimos oneoneone111... :D
-
I believe a Deimos is too hard to do... rounded surfaces and Origamy. I don't know.
-
the orion has rounded parts... Well... One...
-
Rounded parts arent too hard.
-
OMG! This ship roxx! :eek:
*download it* ;7
-
A fair amount are a bit blurry, but you get the picture... (no pun intended ;) )...
I also have managed to glue my fingers to it several times, once without noticing, and proceeding to glue another finger to it before trying to remove the first :p ...
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0089.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0090.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0091.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0092.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0093.JPG)
-
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0094.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0095.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0096.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0097.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0098.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0099.JPG)
-
Above CD for scale :)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0100.JPG)
(http://www.woodentoyandgift.com/files/pepakura/DSCF0101.JPG)
-
Someone should really fix those UV problems :o
-
Someone should ;7
In one of these pics the Orion looks like it has been beamed in half. So maybe someone could do a Orion that has a Big Huge Hole® in it.
-
Venom did :nervous: :p
-
Where? Any pics?
-
It was modeled, not paper :p
Uh... It was in his OTT ship release. Called the Legion.
-
Dammit! It would be cool to have a Orion with a big-ass hole on my desk. But i'll go check it out.
-
[color=66ff00]Nice work Hippo, how have you found the building process?
[/color]
-
i've still yet to decide whether taking each piece and gluing it into shape, and THEN into place, or vice versa is better... :p
Overall though, you definately get to know the ship ;)
-
y'know, if you had a paper model and sealed it properly you could probobly fill it with wax...then you could carve out greebles, turrets and whatnot and the make a mold out of plaster...I need some of this stuff
-
:nervous:
I read wax as water, and it was very much confusing :p
-
Originally posted by Rott3
It would be cool to have a Orion with a big-ass hole on my desk.
If you read that sentence too fast, it sounds pretty funny. :lol:
-
or just move the hyphon :nervous:
-
I have determined that liquid nails is the omega of glues
-
[color=66ff00]What form does it take? 2 part stuff?
[/color]
-
AFAIK, it's a caulking-type product, sold in tubes used for construction/remodelling work...
-
yip, you can buy it in smaller toothpaste style tubes
works great if you have a sort of pick type tool and some forcept clamps, it dries fast and is very tough
-
wow, can't remember last time I saw a Sunkist bottle....
-
someone make a hecate :)
-
(http://freespace.volitionwatch.com/blackwater/Models001.jpg)
(http://freespace.volitionwatch.com/blackwater/Models002.jpg)
(http://freespace.volitionwatch.com/blackwater/Models003.jpg)
(http://freespace.volitionwatch.com/blackwater/Models004.jpg)
(http://freespace.volitionwatch.com/blackwater/Models005.jpg)
(http://freespace.volitionwatch.com/blackwater/Models006.jpg)
(http://freespace.volitionwatch.com/blackwater/Models007.jpg)
got it done!
the nose is a bit twisted, and there's a few bits I don't think were as good as I would have liked, but It is buildable.
if anyone wants to make one, start by getting the engine pods cut out first, and before anything else get that front laser thingy glued into position, then get the sides of the laser thingy, then get the engines, then the rest of the engine pod, then do the nose, get ther rear frill before the actual nose, and be careful to cut it sow the lower parts of all ridged have tabs, the image has them n some bad places so jut cut all edges with tabs and decide wich end you want when you get to them.
oh, and while I was stealing my sister's camera, I got a shot of the imfamus slingshot.
http://freespace.volitionwatch.com/blackwater/sling001.jpg
-
I can't tell if that's awesome or adorable! :D
-
Awdorable?
Anyhow, it's quite nifty either way :p
-
[Mr. Burns] Excellent [/Mr. Burns] Nice little fighter you have there.
Your Infamous Slingshotâ„¢ is cool. Hows your head. Any cool scars.
-
unfortunately no, it was a puncture wound, so it healed completely in like three days, and only had a small external mark.
-
[MoronicQuestion]I've always meant to ask, did you get an infection from that grevious wound and die?[/MoronicQuestion]
:p
Seriously, that model looks awesome, someone should really knock out a Hatchesput, it'd be a ***** to make, but well worth it...:D Then we can put some Yellow Laser pointers inside the Hatchesput model, some Green Laser pointers inside an Orion model, put 'em in a dark, dusty room, and you've got yourself one live-action Beam-Free-All...!
-
http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/lights/5a47/
-
[color=66ff00]Nice work Bob, you should build it to scale with the orions though. ;)
[/color]
-
Originally posted by Sandwich
http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/lights/5a47/
one of the teachers at my college brought one into class once. s'cool.
hmm... so they say:
[q]This pointer is significantly brighter (about 50 times) than a red laser pointer[/q]
then they contradict themselves and say:
[q]Output power of <5mW[/q]
my red laser has an output of 5mw.
-
more powere doesnt necesairly mean brighter, the human eye is more sensetive to shorter wavelengths.
-
but it's definitely not 50 times brighter, or else the one the teacher had would have blinded me.
-
I like how you can visibly see the beam itself at night. That's awesome.
-
disclamer: must be foggy
or something like that.
-
It would cost quite a bit for those theatrics. You might be better off doing it in post production with our good friend rotoscoping. ^_^ Do they even make yellow laser pointers?
-
Back on track... I think this printer (http://www.gizmodo.com/gadgets/japan/index.php#gizmodo-japan-craftrobo-pro-115556) would expidite matters. :D
-
/me wants
-
Hi there, I love this forum. I've been getting into the normal maps, as I am making a space combat game with a friend. I just tried to download your Orion, but the link doesn't work. Do you know what is wrong?
-
If there's anything wrong, it's the fact that you are posting to a topic that died two and a half years ago. The amount of time passed might also explain links that aren't working.
-
Revival, please! This is an awesome idea.
-
Revival, please! This is an awesome idea.
QFT! We need to start selling these things ;7
-
Selling?
On the one hand, that would be sort of... evil... charging money for something so awesome.
On the other hand, it would nicely augment the Donate feature, either as a bonus for large donations, or as a separate thing to buy.
-
I'll have a look around for the original file. Bear in mind though that there are no instructions and I never did get around to fixing the textures and it still needs guns/greeblies.
It's free for all to use/modify, 'charging' for it wouldn't cover fair usage.
EDIT: Details in first post for convenience.