[The E]

Like, for example, software development, where big compiles go much faster with more cores.

[rev_posix]

Side note, if you get a gigabyte board, you will have a better chance of being able to turn the machine into a hackintosh. 

I'm still stumped at why anyone would actually want to do that.

/cue flamewar

In my case, I've almost always found Mac OS to not get in my way nearly as much as Windows.  For the most part, it Just Works(tm) for me and what I do on my machines.

I like Mac OS 10 and it's UNIX underpinnings.  I don't like where Apple is taking it with the iOS looking stuff in 10.7 and later, nor do I like their hardware designs for the midrange.  iMacs are nice looking and all, but I don't like all-in-one designs.

Anyway, I mentioned it as jg18 is looking at building a machine because the current Apple designs are underwhelming in their hardware.

EDIT:  I suppose I should mention as well that this idea really needs to be an Intel-based system.  Some people have made patches to get it to run on an AMD system, but since Apple uses Intel chips, it seems to be less painful to perform the procedure w/ an Intel vs and AMD.

[swashmebuckle]

Side note, if you get a gigabyte board, you will have a better chance of being able to turn the machine into a hackintosh. 

I'm still stumped at why anyone would actually want to do that.

/cue flamewar

My next machine will almost certainly be a hackintosh as I have a huge catalog of logic sessions that I would lose access to if I could only run Windows/Linux. OSX also costs $20, which is a $20 more than Linux but significantly cheaper than Windows IIRC. Generally I agree with you though; hackintosh stuff probably only makes sense for very specific sets of users.

jg18: you've probably already seen this sight if you have any interest in a hackintosh, but here's a rather neatly laid out set of builds that are confirmed to work with 10.8:
http://www.tonymacx86.com/325-building-customac-buyer-s-guide-january-2013.html

edit: ninja'd

[Scourge of Ages]

Your initial thoughts, and the advice you've been getting is all very good so far. I'd just like to say definitely don't skimp on the wireless card; get a recognizable, non-generic brand. I cheaped out on it when I build my computer, and it's a huge headache to install and not even very good.

[jg18]

Thanks for the feedback, guys! OP updated with current tentative selection. Let me know what you think.


A few remaining things:

- Based on the discussion, I take it that the CM Hyper 212 EVO isn't worth it over the 212+?

- I doubt I'll do enough compiling to make the AMD 6- or 8- core worth it.

- I was gonna pick the Samsung 840 120 GB non-Pro SSD, but apparently it uses low-endurance NAND memory and thus isn't recommended. Any other ideas? The 840 Pro 128 GB is ~$40 more.

Recommendations for a magnetic screwdriver? Those look pretty useful. Are there any other tools worth getting?

Not worth buying a screwdriver just for a one-time use, unless you have bad eyesight or shaky hands. Just save one of those sample credit cards that everyone seems to get in the mail or a (clean) playing card to use to spread the thermal paste for the cpu and you have all the tools you need.

Well, my hands are a bit unsteady, so a magnetic screwdriver could well be worth it if it's not that expensive.

[Klaustrophobia]

you can just go to a hardware store to get that.  few bucks probably.  i do really like them for computer work.  those screws are small and fall down onto the motherboard easy.

the answer to the EVO vs. + is... unknown.  last time i did research on it, the benchmarks i found on it didn't seem to be statistically different.  but then again, neither did pretty much anything in the top 10, with prices ranging from $20 to $100+.  if memory serves, the evo is $5 more, so it seems to be a question of do you want to have the latest model.  maybe it has a better machined surface one extra fin or something.

[TwentyPercentCooler]

you can just go to a hardware store to get that.  few bucks probably.  i do really like them for computer work.  those screws are small and fall down onto the motherboard easy.

the answer to the EVO vs. + is... unknown.  last time i did research on it, the benchmarks i found on it didn't seem to be statistically different.  but then again, neither did pretty much anything in the top 10, with prices ranging from $20 to $100+.  if memory serves, the evo is $5 more, so it seems to be a question of do you want to have the latest model.  maybe it has a better machined surface one extra fin or something.

I think there's a difference in how the heat pipes are laid out, but I don't remember ever seeing any reviews that said it was worth the extra money. Making sure the thermal compound is applied properly is probably gonna have a bigger effect on temperatures.

[LHN91]

So as to your current build list: My only real issues (other than my AMD fanboy heart whimpering in protest) are that I would drop the Storage drive to a Blue or Green, and use the extra few dollars to move up to a 600 or 650 watt PSU just to have a bit of extra headroom. That said, the Seasonic units have a great reputation and the one you have picked will definitely be sufficient.

I don't know enough about SSDs to make an informed suggestion there, unfortunately.

[jg18]

Thanks again for your feedback, everyone! OP updated with final list of parts. Rest assured that even if I chose not to follow your advice, I thought about it seriously and greatly appreciate it nonetheless. EDIT: For example, the Corsair HX650 was on sale for a good price, but the widespread complaints of chirping noises made me decide to keep the Seasonic G 550.

The last few parts just arrived, so I'll build it in the next few days. I'll try to take some pictures while I'm building it.

I made a couple last-minute changes for various reasons; for example, I ended up picking the EVO over the + because I heard it's easier to install, and the build process is gonna be challenging as it is, even after getting my YouTube degree in computer building.

The optical drive box arrived with a dent in it. Newegg customer service wants me to test the drive before I can get it exchanged, meaning it'll take even longer before I have a proper optical drive in place, all because Newegg did a ****ty job of packing the box! It was just in a bag without any cushioning.

Yes, I know this qualifies as a First World problem.

[Klaustrophobia]

i was just about to post that the kickass power supply i got was back on the same insane sale today, but i guess it doesn't matter now

[jg18]

I take it you're referring to the OCZ Z Series 850W ($120, $90 w/rebate)? It might be worth returning the Seasonic for it, although I'd pay a 15% restocking fee (~$14). I'm in no great rush to build this thing, though, so I could wait... hmm.

[Klaustrophobia]

that's the one.

and don't forget about return shipping when deciding.

[jg18]

Thanks for the reminder. It looks like there's no way to determine the shipping cost without actually submitting the RMA request, but based on an estimate from UPS, I doubt it's worth it, even if Newegg gets a discounted shipping rate. Thanks for mentioning it, though.

Which reminds me, I'll be if I have to pay return shipping for the optical drive to get exchanged, given that it's their fault for not packing it properly.

Newegg does not pay for return shipping on defective merchandise, as we do not manufacture the products we carry. However, when you return an item to us for replacement, we will ship the replacement item to you at no charge.

What kind of bizarre lame excuse is that? Amazon has always paid return shipping when I've had to return a defective item.

[Scourge of Ages]

That is definitely odd. Perhaps it's a difference between "defective" and damaged due to "incompetence". If it was damaged, they can probably file insurance and cover it themselves.

[Klaustrophobia]

it's standard industry policy that the user pays shipping for returns/rmas.  my motherboard rma (that it turns out wasn't needed) cost me $22. 

HOWEVER, if you hop on to newegg's support chat and ask nicely or give a semi-valid reason (like the not packaged properly thing), they will probably give you a shipping label.  worked for me twice.  the first time i even talked them down on the restocking fee for a return.  in that case, i had a video card go bad within the return period, but decided i'd rather get a different card instead of a replacement. 

[jg18]

And the machine is built!

The process went smoothly for the most part, although it took most of a day.

For the thermal paste, I followed the spreading method shown in the Newegg TV video, which seemed to work OK. Installing the cooler backplate wasn't bad, but the cooler itself was kind of a pain. Took a bit to figure out how to adjust the screws to the right position and then get everything lined up while trying not to get thermal paste on my fingers or on the CPU socket holder.

The cable with the two ATX 4-pin 12V power connectors was just barely long enough to reach, so it required a small blood sacrifice to get those connectors in, followed by cleaning said sacrifice off the CPU cooler. (The aluminum fins are apparently sharper than they look.) It was worth it in the end, but now I understand the G-550 customer reviews complaining about the length of the power cables.

As for the optical drive, the drive itself looks okay and seems to work (installed Windows just fine). I'm reluctant to exchange it for another one, since there's no reason to believe that the next one they send would be any better packed than the first. I guess I could return it and get the same drive from a brick-and-mortar store.

One issue is that the computer is a bit loud from the fans, probably because there's no fan control for the case fans, so they're always on. The exhaust fan is 3-pin and the two front fans have some proprietary connection into a single 4-pin Molex power connector. I've heard that Gigabyte boards don't have good fan control support, besides. I'd rather have it so case fan speeds get automatically controlled by system needs if possible. I'm also concerned that having the case fans always on could shorten their lifespan. Maybe I'll have to get a separate fan controller. Opinions?

[LHN91]

The biggest issue is that your motherboard, regardless of the quality of it's fan control, only has two additional connectors for fans - one on the top left, and one on the top right. You might be stuck picking up a fan controller. That said, the exhaust fan could likely be connected to the top left spot - unless that connector only allows for controlling fans with 4-pin PWM connections, which it may.

I haven't seen any reviews that mention the front fans only being controlled via a single molex, so that's odd. Are you sure the connections aren't just simple 4-pin PWM fan connectors into a 4-pin molex adapter? Because if they are, you can most likely disconnect the adapter and get at least one of them connected to the top right 4-pin on the board. Otherwise, you likely will need a separate fan controller to be able to adjust them.

[jg18]

The board I'm using (GA-Z77X-UD5H rev. 1.1) actually has 4 fan headers: one on the top left near the back panel ports (which is where the exhaust fan is plugged in), one on the top right next to the RAM slots, one on the bottom center between various front panel headers, and one on the lower right.

The front fans might have 4-pin connectors connected into the Molex, although I don't know if the cables are long enough to reach the board. I'll have to look into it.

If I end up having to get a separate fan controller, any recommendations? I took a quick look at Hardware Secrets and Newegg and there seem to be controllers that cost around $25 and others that cost more like $50-60. Not surprisingly, I'd prefer the $25 variety. Would a fan controller be able to control the exhaust fan, given that it has a 3-pin connector?

Thanks for your help.

EDIT: According to the manual, the 4th fan header (bottom center one) doesn't seem to have a pin for speed control. Its pin 4 is marked "Reserve" rather than "Speed Control". Does that mean I should avoid using that header if possible?

[LHN91]

Oh. Information I found online about your board only shows the 3 total connectors - possibly the rev 1.1 added the additional headers.

The difference between 4-pin and 3-pin fans are that 3-pin fans can only be controlled by changing the voltage applied to the fan, while 4-pin fans are controlled using Pulse Wave Modulation. Basically they turn on and off really fast, and the distance between the intervals controls the speed. Whether the motherboard can handle both, or just PWM fans is a question the manual *should* be able to answer, though from what it looks like the motherboard can only do PWM, if the exhaust fan running full-tilt is any indication. There *might* be an adjustment in the BIOS somewhere, again, couldn't hurt to look.

Most separate fan controllers, at least ones I've seen, use voltage adjustment to control the fans, and as such it would be able to control the exhaust fan. As for brands, I've been using single-channel internal controllers on my system, so I'm not as up to date on current front panel controllers.

EDIT: After taking a look through the manual, from the pin layout on the headers, SYSFAN_1 has the ability to control by Voltage, and 2/3 only can control by PWM control (4-pin fans with speed control). 4 is only for full speed, no speed control.

[Klaustrophobia]

honestly, you in all likelihood don't need all those case fans.  i have two running: a front intake and a rear exhaust.  the exhaust is barely above room temp.  the only way i get any hot air out of my rig is from the video card after a while of gaming.  i'm even considering turning off the front fan.  it makes an ugly round ring of dust on the case cover. :/